Branscombe is one of the loveliest spots on the coast of East Devon, so when you’re down this way on holiday, it’s well worth a visit. The village is postcard pretty and it has all the charm and feels of less complicated times; it’s like life slows down a gear or two here, so it’s good to amble about and be in the moment, to enjoy the surroundings, spend time on the beach, and stop for an unhurried bite to eat.
Turn off the A3052 between Beer and Sidmouth and pootle down the winding lane to Branscombe, through the spectacular countryside of the East Devon National Landscape. The village still has a strong sense of community despite several of the properties being second homes or holiday lets, and a history covering smuggling, cliff farming and lace making; Branscombe made national headlines in 2007 when MCS Napoli ran aground there after being damaged in a ferocious storm. People flocked from miles around to scavenge the cargo for keeps or to sell on Ebay!
The mile long main street runs down through a picturesque valley, lined with centuries old cottages, many of them thatched, adorned with hanging baskets, roses clambering happily up the walls. There’s a medieval church, backed by steep fields and woodlands, two very good pubs – The Masons Arms and The Fountain Head Inn – an Old Bakery, and the oldest thatched working forge in the country.
The Old Bakery is used as a small café for tea and cake, and a hub for rural crafts; what’s interesting is that there’s still much evidence of its former use in the original bread ovens and proving trough, as well as a collection of tins, dishes and paperwork relating to the bakers who worked here over the years. The Forge is still the workplace of blacksmiths who stick to traditional methods, whose work can be seen in the showroom.
The short walk alongside a stream from the village to the beach is lovely, though there is a smallish car park close to the shore. Next to it is The Sea Shanty Beach Café and Shop, serving breakfast, lunch and cream teas; sit outside and you’ll be quite content watching the world go by, the comings and goings on the long pebble beach, sheltered on both sides by dramatic cliffs. People come here for sea swimming, kayaking and paddleboarding, though if you’re feeling adventurous, it’s worth remembering that as with all of the beaches along the Jurassic Coast, it shelves steeply not far from the shore, so you can find yourself in very deep water quite quickly. Come at low tide and there are rockpools to spuddle in, come when the tide is approaching in the summer and you can try your hand at fishing for mackerel. Dogs are allowed on the beach all year, except for a restricted zone near the café.
A short walk from the centre of the village you can visit Manor Mill when it’s open; recently restored by the National Trust, it’s an interesting glimpse into the life of a working miller – during its heyday in the 19th century, the mill provided the whole village with flour. If you fancy stretching your legs a bit further, head up over the cliffs on the South West Coast Path and walk to Beer, dropping down into Hooken Undercliff for a change of scene and sub-tropical feels.
In the other direction you can walk to Salcombe Regis or Sidmouth, or equally challenging, to Littlecombe Shoot – if you can find it! Just a short way along the coast path from Branscombe beach you’ll need to be on the lookout for a small wrought iron gate that looks like it’s the entrance to someone’s garden – but it isn’t. Go through it and a steep and narrow path zigzags quite perilously down the cliff with rope banisters to hold onto; if you meet anyone on their way back up, breathe in because it will be a squeeze. But provided you’re reasonably fit, it’s fun and when you arrive on the beach you’ll find it quiet, probably due to the access and to the fact that there are no facilities here – no café, no loos, no lifeguards. The beach is backed by cliffs rich in vegetation, dotted with shacks and cabins, and you can’t help wondering how on earth they got there. The way back is the way you came, or you can head up further along the beach to come out on an Iron Age hillfort, to feel the bracing sea air and the wind in your hair.
It would only seem right to round off your visit to Branscombe with lunch or dinner, or at least a pint, in one of the pubs.
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